1885
AMERICAN
Walking Dress
Probably American, ca. 1885
Black silk velvet trimmed with black chenille fringe
Gift of David L. Andrews, 1976 (1976.254.6a, b)
1986
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Coat
Autumn/winter 1986–87
Yohji Yamamoto, Japanese, born 1943
Black wool twill
Purchase, Gould Family Foundation Gift, in memory of Jo Copeland, 2014 (2014.455)
Responding to an economic crisis in the textile industry in the early 1880s, Charles Frederick Worth reintroduced the bustle shape to increase France’s luxury textile production, which had declined during the slim princess-line era. Requiring copious amounts of yardage to produce, the new bustle was voluminous, reaching its greatest extension by 1885. In this dress, weighty silk velvet is gathered in generous folds that create further volume around the bustle, supporting the skirt drapery. The monumentality of the silhouette is softened by a cascade of tiered chenille fringe that outlines the edges of the jacket.
A century later, Yohji Yamamoto designed a series of long black woolen overcoats that were cut away at the back to reveal ethereal poufs of nylon tulle reminiscent of the exaggerated bustle of the 1880s. Of varying lengths and extensions, and ranging in color from red to black to white, the poufs emerged like explosions of cotton candy. The back of this coat is cut with several layers of cloth that enhance its exuberant extension.
A century later, Yohji Yamamoto designed a series of long black woolen overcoats that were cut away at the back to reveal ethereal poufs of nylon tulle reminiscent of the exaggerated bustle of the 1880s. Of varying lengths and extensions, and ranging in color from red to black to white, the poufs emerged like explosions of cotton candy. The back of this coat is cut with several layers of cloth that enhance its exuberant extension.