2003
HELMUT LANG
Ensemble
Spring/summer 2003
Helmut Lang, Austrian, born 1956
Tank of white synthetic knit; V strap of black synthetic
knit; trousers of black cotton canvas, elastic, and latex
Gift of the artist, 2009 (2009.516.8a–c)
2015
HOOD BY AIR
Ensemble
Spring/summer 2015
Hood By Air, American, founded 2006
Suit of black cotton plain weave with silver metal zippers; shorts of black coated cotton
Courtesy HBA Museum
In the 2000s, designers evolved concepts that had taken root the decade before and matured their visual vocabulary. Helmut Lang advanced his distinctive, minimalist aesthetic defined by lean, deconstructed silhouettes that referenced utilitarian dress and military uniforms. This ensemble from Lang’s spring/summer 2003 collection features his trademark use of cutouts to expose the basic structure of the garment. The V-neck top is reduced to cap sleeves, center front zipper, back spine, and waistband, revealing a white tank beneath.
Designer Shayne Oliver founded Hood by Air with a community of artistic collaborators in 2006. Oliver’s innovative designs, born from personal experience and the collective’s shared aesthetic, address concepts related to luxury, gender, and sexual expression. His spring/summer 2015 collection was a comment on contemporary masculinity. This deconstructed ensemble recalls Lang’s design; the men’s suit is reduced to its skeletal form and fitted to a female model. Oliver was a designer-in-residence at Helmut Lang in 2016 and credits the designer for inspiring his work.
Designer Shayne Oliver founded Hood by Air with a community of artistic collaborators in 2006. Oliver’s innovative designs, born from personal experience and the collective’s shared aesthetic, address concepts related to luxury, gender, and sexual expression. His spring/summer 2015 collection was a comment on contemporary masculinity. This deconstructed ensemble recalls Lang’s design; the men’s suit is reduced to its skeletal form and fitted to a female model. Oliver was a designer-in-residence at Helmut Lang in 2016 and credits the designer for inspiring his work.