1927
GABRIELLE CHANEL
Dress
Ca. 1927
Gabrielle Chanel, French, 1883–1971
Black wool jersey and black silk satin
Purchase, The New York Historical Society,
by exchange, 1984 (1984.28a–c)
2018
OFF-WHITE C/O
VIRGIL ABLOH
Dress
Pre-fall 2018
Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, Italian, founded 2013
Black and white synthetic knit
Gift of Virgil Abloh c/o Off-White™, 2018 (2018.585a)
Typical of Gabrielle Chanel’s designs, this dress strikes a balance between formality and informality and between severity and softness. A sportif attitude—conveyed by the loose bodice, box-pleated skirt, and jaunty belt with metal hardware—belies the precision evidenced in its rigorous cut and refined couture finishes. The two-piece dress incorporates contrasting matte daywear and lustrous eveningwear materials, utilizing black wool jersey accented with black satin.
In Virgil Abloh’s 2018 revival of Chanel’s iconic design, the phrase “little black dress” appears in quotation marks. Abloh’s use of quoted text in the Helvetica typeface has become an Off-White trademark. The device references the designer’s interest in the artistic value of commonplace objects. Here, the text serves as both a wry description of the garment type and a tribute to the enduring aesthetic of the original design.
In Virgil Abloh’s 2018 revival of Chanel’s iconic design, the phrase “little black dress” appears in quotation marks. Abloh’s use of quoted text in the Helvetica typeface has become an Off-White trademark. The device references the designer’s interest in the artistic value of commonplace objects. Here, the text serves as both a wry description of the garment type and a tribute to the enduring aesthetic of the original design.