1935
GABRIELLE CHANEL
Evening Dress
1935
Gabrielle Chanel, French, 1883–1971
Black silk net embroidered with black sequins
Gift of Claudia de Osborne, 1977 (1977.407.11a–d)
1955
NORMAN NORELL
Dress
Ca. 1955
Norman Norell, American, 1900–1972
Black silk-synthetic jersey
embroidered with black sequins
Gift of Starr Haymes Kempin and Evan A. Haymes, in loving memory of their mother,
Gail Lowe Maidman, 2017 (2017.316.7)
Along with the seductive cling of the bias cut, upper-body bareness—especially through low-cut or completely open backs—typified eveningwear of the 1930s. In this early prototype of what today would be called a slip dress, Gabrielle Chanel has fully embraced the period’s license to expose. The dress comprises a separate camisole bodice that hooks to a bias-cut skirt, leaving a peekaboo triangle at the back. Both components are encrusted with precisely placed rows of overlapping sequins.
Sequined evening sheaths became a signature of Norman Norell’s oeuvre. Produced in numerous variations from the 1940s through the end of his career, they became known as his “mermaid” gowns. As with this example, Norell’s mermaids are typically constructed of jersey with sequins applied by hand in an irregular pattern to give the impression of a unified field of spangles. The ease of a knitted fabric combined with exacting, hand-worked details and a minimalist silhouette produces a balance of luxury and comfort, ostentation and simplicity equal to that of Chanel.
Sequined evening sheaths became a signature of Norman Norell’s oeuvre. Produced in numerous variations from the 1940s through the end of his career, they became known as his “mermaid” gowns. As with this example, Norell’s mermaids are typically constructed of jersey with sequins applied by hand in an irregular pattern to give the impression of a unified field of spangles. The ease of a knitted fabric combined with exacting, hand-worked details and a minimalist silhouette produces a balance of luxury and comfort, ostentation and simplicity equal to that of Chanel.