1973
HALSTON
Dress
ELSA PERETTI
BeltDress: autumn/winter 1973–74; belt: ca. 1971
Halston, American, 1932–1990
Elsa Peretti, Italian, born 1940
Dress of black wool cashmere knit; belt
of black leather with sterling silver buckle
Dress: Courtesy Christine Royer; belt: Courtesy The Collection of Ralph Rucci
1996
TOM FORD
for GUCCI
Ensemble
Autumn/winter 1996–97
Gucci, Italian, founded 1921
Tom Ford, American, born 1961
Dress of black synthetic knit; thong of black synthetic knit and gold metal
Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2019 (2019.370a, b)
Halston’s elongated tank top—made of luxurious wool cashmere accented with a sterling-silver horseshoe belt buckle by Elsa Peretti—is the essence of 1970s minimalist chic. Rather than coalescing around a single trend or identifiable silhouette, fashions of the 1970s were eclectic: punk, folkloric, sportswear, minimalist, and menswear-inspired styles coexisted throughout much of the decade. At his peak, Halston promoted an aesthetic that married luxury, reductivism, and the elegance of eveningwear with the casual comfort of sportswear. His modernist vision is fully realized in this sheath, which transforms the humble tank into a dress for all occasions.
Like Halston’s designs in the 1970s, Tom Ford’s work for Gucci in the 1990s melded practical wearability with luxury and sex appeal. Part of a finale series of white dresses from his autumn/winter 1996–97 presentation, this matte jersey dress and thong combination echoes the muted sumptuousness of the Halston/Peretti ensemble while simultaneously speaking to the spirit of its own time. In lieu of a hip-adorning belt buckle, a cutout exposes the ornamented strap of a coordinating thong, an undergarment that gained prominence in the 1990s, sometimes flaunted outwardly above the waist of low-cut trousers.
Like Halston’s designs in the 1970s, Tom Ford’s work for Gucci in the 1990s melded practical wearability with luxury and sex appeal. Part of a finale series of white dresses from his autumn/winter 1996–97 presentation, this matte jersey dress and thong combination echoes the muted sumptuousness of the Halston/Peretti ensemble while simultaneously speaking to the spirit of its own time. In lieu of a hip-adorning belt buckle, a cutout exposes the ornamented strap of a coordinating thong, an undergarment that gained prominence in the 1990s, sometimes flaunted outwardly above the waist of low-cut trousers.